Olives
I was perplexed by Garth Brown’s departure from The Tribune (now The Trib Steakhouse) to take the GM role at Olives. Trading Stephen Avenue, arguably Calgary’s best restaurant strip and all the competitive juices that flow there for hoards of Flames fans and casino dwellers who may be more interested in speed of service than quality of food or any semblance of the program Olives may build seemed odd. What Garth’s move may have lacked in pizzazz has been made up for with a demonstrable execution of his plan for Olives.
Having been here several times since March the progress has been easy to pick out (even for a guy like me who cannot hide from Garth or his staff). I am impressed by the transformation that has unfolded these past few months and have to admit that while I think the location may have displaced them from seekers of fine dining and the room may feel more like a nightclub than a place some diners will want to spend a lot of time eating in…there are many reasons to dine here again and again.
The name “Olives” would seem to imply a menu dedicated to…well I didn’t know what to think before we went the first time. Upon arriving I saw that the wine list is completely devoted to Italian selections, but I would refrain from categorizing them as a true Italian restaurant. It’s Italian inspired.
The very first thing I ate was a fresh mozzarella and tomato salad and it was incredible. There’s nothing quite like fresh cheese and great olive oil for simplicity and texture. I wasn’t overly impressed with the tomatoes but had just landed from a trip to Australia so was a tad biased in my immediate view of our local produce. The star of my first visit was easily the Black Angus ribeye.
There are about a dozen places in Calgary calling themselves steakhouses and every resto serves steak, but the meat I ate at Olives was one of the juiciest, tastiest steaks I’ve ever had locally. If the ribeye is on the menu and you go, it’s worth a taste and will easily impress over some of our institutional beef houses that rest on their laurels serving the same tired dishes night after night. The final piece of the puzzle on this evening was Tiramisu with Espresso Gelato. I ordered it because Garth insisted it was like no other Tiramisu I have had, and he was right. Fantastic! No drowned out lady fingers or fake whipped cream in the middle. Very well executed.
As indicated I have been back a several times since my first visit and have enjoyed many items such as marinated baby beets and fennel, salads featuring fennel, chicken cooked sous-vide, wild mushroom soup, fresh pasta, etc. There’s a lot going on and the menu changes with the season so it motivates diners to come back and see what Chefs Jonathan Canning and his sous JP Gerritsen have come up with. Having watched JP beat Ned Bell and Chuck Hughes in a recent Iron Chef competition in Calgary I can tell you firsthand as one of the event judges that these guys can cook, much to the chagrin of the Food Network clan.
The food at Olives may have always been good but the service was inconsistent. Like a baby elephant on roller-skates you could see the lack of coordination right from the beginning. This is an area where I have noticed the largest improvement since my first visit and it makes me wonder why more restaurants cannot seem to clean up their act; “talent shortages” are a lame excuse. The quality of servers has improved steadily since Garth arrived, but the coordinated delivery of food to tables makes the experience so much more pleasant. Good service is not rocket science. Imagine receiving your food with friends at the same time! It seems so simple, basic, but all too often at least one poor schlep is hung out to dry while everyone else gorges. Good manners are outranked by the need for hot food these days but this need not be the case at Olives. A symphony of service awaits you.
Though I didn’t feel the location would be a place I’d want to hang out at night (teens and twentysomethings peeing around each corner prior to entering Cowboy’s) there is ample parking and the area is safe and clean (no one asks you for money on the street) with nary a crack dealer in sight. It served as a reminder of how badly clean-up efforts on Stephen Avenue have been needed.
So after my curmudgeonly preconceptions I have come away many times pleasantly surprised by Olives. My only complaints…the wine list needs an overhaul (if you don’t like Italian wine, you’re out of luck) and the music can be a bit loud for a dining environment...but if you want a good time with a group of friends, this lively room is for you. Overall, the food is excellent, service has really improved and the open kitchen concept is a treat to watch. With Lee Peppinck (Calgary’s best bartender) pouring drinks in the comfy lounge and Garth commanding the room, you’re in good hands even before the food rolls out (all at once!). Cheers.
Vin Room
It’s not like I needed to consume more food or booze after the holiday season…but the prospect of 64 wines by the glass was just too good to pass up at Vin Room(2310-4th St. SW). Located directly across the street from her pals at Bin 905, sommelier Karen Kho has hit a homerun with the wine list. Put simply, I love this place.
Choose a 2 oz. pour…maybe 6 oz….or a lucky 13 oz. or damn the torpedoes and spring for a bottle. I’m sprung by the layout of the wine menu and then there’s the wines themselves…brilliant selections across the board. I sampled Chasseur Pinot Noir…Boglietti Barbera...Quintarelli Primofiore…Oliverhill Shiraz…and Bogle Phantom Petit Sirah/Zinfandel. So many boutique wines are on this menu I felt like a mouse trapped in a grain elevator…more…more…more!
It was a cold, windy Saturday and we could have easily have spent 5 or 6 hours sampling away, and that was just on the reds. The beauty of a 2 oz. pour is being able to try just about everything you like or have been too cheap to buy yourself a bottle of (in my case that bottle is the Quintarelli) without getting completely pickled. This is an outstanding list and though it’s a cliché, it offers something for everyone at every budget.
The down side to getting lost in this list is how much you’ll spend on those 2 oz. pours ($10.75 for the Quintarelli) but it’s still better than spending your coin on a whole bottle at retail and not liking it. I’ll pay the resto markup to sample anytime. It can add up quickly but represents an unparalleled tasting opportunity in Calgary, so for me it’s worth it.
Given that it was late afternoon I was only able to try a few lunch menu items but the Short Rib Shepards pie ($22) was perfect given the weather. The build-your-own Charcuterie Plate (items charged in 30 gram increments) was a big hit as well (their homemade horseradish mustard is a toe curler). We also ordered a shrimp cocktail which seemed a bit out of place on the menu but the shrimp were fine and the house made cocktail sauce was nice and zippy. Everything was hot, fresh, and tasty.
I could go on and try to describe the make up of Vin Room, but you have to see it to appreciate it. It’s cozy, colorful, and has some great furniture. You’ll need to check out the state of the art wine preservation system that allows them to serve all that great juice too. Very impressive overall, it’s clear they spent some bucks and if you’re a cork dork like me you’ll love it. Can’t wait to go back for dinner!
Good Things Eaten Lately: Parker House
I was intrigued by the October 21st unveiling of Parker House in the historical Lougheed Building. Named after The Parker House Hotel in Boston (est. 1896) I see a poetic irony in having a local restaurant pay homage to New England’s culinary tradition while being located in a heritage building in landlocked Calgary. Complemented by the ever famous Parker House rolls, the menu has been kept secret with few knowing what to truly expect. I had to know!
Side note: eating and writing about a restaurant that is 11 days old may be an excuse to temper expectations and write off issues as a work in progress…but customers should never compromise. If the restaurant is charging full prices, expect good service and food. Problems aren’t our concern. We have enough overpriced “fine dining” spots getting away with inconsistency in service and food quality.
Upon being greeted by a happy hostess (that makes 2 in Calgary) and seated on the mezzanine level we were provided a lovely amuse-bouche featuring a seared scallop topped with bacon foam and surrounded by a brilliant orange infused cocktail sauce. A lovely beginning accomplishing its intended nefarious mission….I was now salivating.
I was overwhelmed by the menu. There are so many thing to try. Resigned to an evening of gluttony we settled on Manhattan clam chowder, duck wings, trio of oysters, braised beef ribs and lobster turnovers…to start.
The Manhattan clam chowder ($7.23) was quite good…if you don’t like the taste of clams or clam juice. Subsequently my wife loved it as she despises clammy flavors. I thought it was more like a very good vegetable soup with clams. It wasn’t bad, on the contrary it was a great tasting soup…but it wasn’t what I expected from a chowder.
The duck wing portion scared me ($14.54). Three layers of sweet chili glazed log cabin style stacked wings with gorgonzola dip and ancho chili chutney on the side. This was all the meaty goodness one could hope for when eating duck. The wings could be a tad crispier but that’s a preference. They were served warm and tasted fabulous. The dip and the chutney were both excellent compliments to the glaze.
Oysters trio ($18.78) featured shucked, Rockefeller, and Cajun spiced fritters. There’s nothing like a fresh oyster for me but in this case the Cajun fritters stole the show…by a long shot. Light batter with the right amount of spice and crispiness. I could have eaten dozens of these jewels.
Thankfully our final appetizers came out on one plate because by this point I’m sure people around us were counting and we didn’t need another serving on our table. At some point during the appetizers we received the coveted Parker House rolls…but I’ll come back to those. Enter a half pound of braised beef short ribs ($12.12) and the lobster turnovers ($17.68). The maple glaze on the ribs is something I could smear on ANY meat. Outstanding flavor and the ribs were fork tender. The 3 puff pastry turnovers were served with a coriander and lime aioli. Wonderfully light puff pastry with a piping hot, creamy filling and in nice balance with the aioli. At this point I call a time-out. The entrée order can wait…but what about the rolls…
Per an online search engine…a Parker House roll is a shape of bread roll made by flattening the center of a ball of dough with a rolling pin so that it becomes an oval shape and then folding the oval in half. They are made with milk and are generally quite buttery, soft, and slightly sweet with a crispy shell. My take…imagine the best tasting dinner roll you’ve ever had…just like the description above…buttery, soft, sweet, warm…now add the flavor of fleur de sel and you have it. Served with a daily flavored butter (we had fennel and sambuca) these sweet yet salty “works of art” will keep me coming back on their own…there’s nothing like them in Calgary. It’s not just a bun; it’s a triumph of baking in our food scene.
Maybe some lighter entrées would be in order…the grilled spring chicken with chili glaze and fettuccine alfredo ($24.68)….or the lobster mac’n 3 cheeses ($24.45)….no no it has to be the seafood cannelloni in rosé brandy sauce ($22.75)…forget that, it’s the crab boil ($25.15)…okay we finally decide on the roasted salmon with porcini crust in shellfish consommé ($22.45) and bison osso buco with saffron risotto ($40.62).
The salmon was lovely. Moist and cooked to perfection. The shellfish broth was better than the clam chowder (I assume they come from the same stock so what gives?). The portion of bison was ridiculous….even if I hadn’t gorged on appetizers there’s no way I would have finished the massive shank. Just like the ribs, it was fork tender. The risotto had gorgeous color with saffron permeating every little spec of rice. Excellent finish!
I could not have been happier with my first jaunt to Parker House. Next time I will definitely dine on the lighter side and taste a few items it just wasn’t possible to sample given the limits of my beltline. The Guinness steamed mussels and multiple varieties of aged, organic steaks featuring local producers caught my eye (and I rarely order steak). All desserts are $7.63 but there’s no way I could even attempt one…though the skillet baked brownie with vanilla black pepper ice cream will meet my tummy soon…
Regarding the service…it was friendly, courteous and though a little awkward at times I have no complaints. The wine list...many values by the bottle and by the glass. It’s not a deep list overall but it does feature the Euro Cave preservation system with six whites ($6-15 range) and ten reds ($7-14 range). More than enough to choose from. On this evening Penfold’s Bin 389 was a featured wine which was served at proper temperature. My glass reeked of detergent but a new glass was provided without delay by our server.
You will be impressed by the room, or should I say rooms of Parker House. There’s a dining room, mezzanine level, lounge area (3 piece jazz bands included) and a basement with private dining room. Nothing was missed in this space from the impeccable glass tile (about $250K worth) to the hand made, mouth blown glass chandeliers (cost unknown, but feared!). I have no idea what this place cost to build but it’s gorgeous. Sure to be Calgary’s newest hotspot, I’ll be back, with friends!
Photos of the Parker House dishes appear in my Pictures section. Enjoy!
Restaurant Musing Archives…
Ruth's Chris Steakhouse
I was so excited to have RC's open in Calgary. Though I am an Alberta beef fan all the way...I never had a bad experience at RC's while living/touring throughout the USA. The steak I had in Washington's location while trapped during the blizzard of '96 was as good a piece of meat as anything we have here and it was cooked in such a unique way...crispy on the outside and pink and juicy on the inside...my mouth still waters. After sending many friends to the Edmonton location and hearing how much they all enjoyed it I was giddy as a kid on Christmas to try our Calgary locale...and then...like the Hindenburg, expectations evaporated right before my eyes.
After waiting for 15 minutes I finally flagged down a water boy to ask if he could get someone to serve us. Promptly a waiter I had watched serve all the tables around us popped by to apologize for the delay and indicated he would "take our table since no one else had"...a clear line of bullshit designed to deflect his own blindness for having walked past us several times. As we had waited for him we were able to rattle off our complete food and drink order at once. The wine we ordered showed up 10 minutes after he left with our orders (nice Zin, good price) and our appetizers showed up just afterwards. The crab cakes were excellent...and for $23 they had better be. The shrimp cocktail was also excellent. At least the food seemed to living up to its billing. The wine service was okay, no decanter nor an offer to decant...but I figured this guy was used to screw caps (and not on GOOD Aussie wines) so I didn't bother.
The waiter we had was clearly the village idiot in the place. Let's call him Biff. I watched Biff running from table to table while his peers seemed calm and collected which, given the atmosphere is exactly what is called for. Now the fun part, after our appetizers had been on our table for 5 minutes a food runner shows up with our mains. Totally unacceptable but he apologized and took our food back with no problems...except in my mind I wondered if my food was sitting under a heat lamp somewhere dying on the vine.
Biff shows up and apologizes for the mishap and explains that because the kitchen was having issues all night he put our main course order in at the same time as our appetizers because he believed these "delays" would have seen our food come out at the appropriate time. Nothing like throwing the kitchen staff under the bus. I am sure Biff is popular amongst his peers. In any case, this is a major screw up in my world. Nice work Biff.
We finish our appetizers and our table is cleared promptly. The food runner comes back with our food and does a nice job positioning our mushrooms, potatoes au gratin and steaks. The plates sizzle with butter and come out at 500 degrees but our steaks look dead. We both ordered the filet, medium rare. Mine is brown...all the way through. The other steak is cooked perfectly on the inside but hardly looks broiled...which incidentally is what they are SUPPOSED to be famous for. Clearly one sat under a heat lamp, one came out fresh, but neither was broiled properly. For $48 a steak, they better be perfect...and they were far from it.
The sides were god awful. The potatoes were cold and the mushrooms either came out of a can or were somehow preserved given their rubbery texture and weak taste. Biff comes to ask how our food is 10 minutes later, I show him my steak and he offers to take it back...which is nice...but a dollar short and day late as the expression goes. At this point I feel physically ill....I have no idea why but I go to the restroom just in case my $23 crab cakes are coming back up...while I am away Biff HITS on my girlfriend! Can it get any better??
Rather than experiencing anymore we get the bill, get the hell outta dodge and finish our evening at Divino where Brad and Brian demonstrate to us what customer service is all about. Thanks Ruth's Chris....did I mention it was my birthday? There may come a day when I go back, and that would be the day that drinking wine with Little Penguins on the bottle is something I crave. Their motto is an "Adventure in Flavor"...it was an adventure alright...just like the Hindenburg. Worst value I have experienced in Calgary this year.
Ruth's Chris Update: Some of you may have read my account of the fiasco that was my birthday dinner at RC (it's posted in User Submissions)...to the credit of their management I received an email apology, a personal apology from the manager and even some gift certs to convince me to come back. While I was completely unimpressed with my dining experience, I was impressed by the way they handled it after the fact. A special thank you to Marcel. Cheers mate.
Catch Restaurant is a place I hadn't been to in a looong time. I always felt it was overpriced and the quality was lacking. My recent experience confirmed that Catch is expensive...but WOW the quality was spot on. The wine service was excellent....we ordered a pinot and out came the Riedel pinot tasting glasses. I have NEVER had that experience anywhere else in Calgary. The braised short-rib I ordered was the highlight...tender and packed with flavours. An excellent meal overall if you're okay shellling out $150 or more for 2.
Bouchon - Las Vegas
Thomas Keller’s entry into Sin City…assuming you can find the place on the 10thfloor in the Venetian this spot is well worth the hunt. “Bouchon” refers to the Lyon based café style that has existed for hundreds of years. The Vegas entry is modeled after the California location in Yountville, CA. In case you haven’t heard….Keller is arguably the greatest Chef in America (it’s him or Charlie Trotter)…his French Laundry restaurant is legendary (as is the cookbook).
I wasn’t sure what to expect given the hike we had endeared and upon arriving I was taken aback at the loud, lively, boisterous environment…I had expected snooty, laid back, traditional stuffy wannabe French atmosphere full of high rollers looking down their noses at the masses. This joint was alive and fun! Having been in Paris this past spring…it brought back great memories of the bistro scene I found so invigorating.
Seated at the bar while we waited for our table I enjoyed a glass of Cali sparkling ($13, Roederer Estate, NV). The wait wasn’t an issue and before long we were seated and the experience began. I say “experience” because this meal was spot on in every aspect (wine service aside) though the room was surprisingly small and while decorated in a classic French style (quite appeasing to the senses) the acoustics, maybe by design, were awful.
For appetizers we enjoyed Mixed Greens with Red Wine Vinaigrette, Warm Goat Cheese & Herbs de Provence & the best Escargot I have ever tasted ($15). Each snail had an individualpuff pastry dollop on top for dunking in the creamy butter and garlic sauce underneath. I am ruined for life after this classic rendition. Every time I order escargot here I’ll be haunted by rubbery texture and over use of garlic. The salad, while lovely, was nothing out of this world but the cheese was tangy and fresh. A steal for $9.75 and REAL red wine vinaigrette really is a blessing.
The entrées proved to be very precise in their execution and represented excellent value given Vegas markups. The Roasted Chicken with green lentils, pearl onions, bacon lardoons and sauce Chasseur ($27.50) was cooked to perfection. I couldn’t resist the Boudin Blanc with potato purée & sautéed prunes….absolute nirvana. The potatoes had to be helium injected to be THAT light and flavorful. For $24.50 I couldn’t have been happier. For dessert…Pot de Crème($8.50)…so full of creamy fattiness I could feel my ass expanding as I ate it. The only problem with this menu for me….wayyyyy too much looks good. I could have eaten here every night, had something completely different and wanted to come back for more. I encourage you to surf their online menu…but you will salivate so be careful Pavlov!
The down side of Bouchon for me…yes....the wine service sucked. Once again I was disappointed by the lack of attention to detail in this realm. What’s worse…they actually have an antique-like cart for displaying and storing wine bottles, glasses, and decanters…which is great IF they actually offer the service.
It was somewhat shocking to me that I’d order Sea Smoke Pinot Noir (Botella) for $136 and not even have the sommelier offer to decant. But it wasn’t just our table…NO ONE in the room had their wine decanted. I asked him if it would be a problem but he happily agreed and even stored our bottle and decanter on the fancy wine cart…but why’d I have to ask in the first place? And why or why did the glassware have be those ridiculous en vogue wine bowls that kill any chance of fully appreciating a fine Pinot? The wine’s temperature was perfect so I guess 1 out of 3 isn’t a total write-off…but it’s the small details that separate really good experiences from the outstanding.
The menu at Bouchon is highly seasonal so be assured that some of the items I enjoyed may not be featured as described. In sum, Bouchon is perfectly executed French fare at prices ANYONE can afford. This is your must-have dining experience in Vegas given the prices and brilliance of their kitchen. Enjoy!
Lunch by the pool at Raw Bar is something everyone should do when the sun is out. What a great setting! It’s like eating in LA or Miami…minus humidity and smog of course. I really enjoyed the experience and found the service to be excellent. Their homemade soup of the day arrived piping hot (cream of cauliflower) and really surprised me with its flavor (in a good way). The pulled pork sandwich I had was excellent. It was moist, nice bread and just the right size. The wine list provides a nice selection of by the glass whites and reds. It couldn’t have been better and works very well with the menu overall. The whole hour was like stepping out of Calgary and into some other world. It’s a great lunch hour escape and I’ll definitely go back.
Friday night….very hungry….very lazy….very hot….let’s order pizza. Generally I am very loyal to Sammy’s in the South of Calgary (since I moved away from Sophie’s Pizza delivery zone) but on this night I dared to be different…and paid dearly for it. Tom’s House of Pizza is a self-proclaimed Calgary institution. "Self-proclaimed" is right because after what I had from them I was left scratching my head as to how they have not only remained open all these years…but even managed to expand. Zoinks! I had never met a pizza I didn’t like until this night. We ordered two pizzas, one Special and one Hawaiian. Both were loaded with toppings (the highlight being the unpeeled pepperoni) but lacked cheese and the cheese they did put on the pizza was underneath the toppings thereby ensuring everything falls off when you try to lift the soggy crust out of the box. Should I even mention how stone cold it was when it arrived? Tom is not welcome in my house, nuff said.
My favorite patio in Calgary is still Bonterra. I ate there a few times over the summer and they remain a consistent force in Calgary’s restaurant scene. The food is always fresh, well priced, and the portions are excellent. The Grilled Marinated Calamari ($12) and Gnocchi ($15) keep me coming back in the summer…but the Osso Buco ($32) and Braised Veal Cheeks ($24) are what I’ll look forward to in the fall and winter! The wine list is functional though I was disappointed there was no Rosé to drink. If there is anything I could complain about…it’s that it’s time to revamp the menu a bit and roll out some new dishes to compliment what they have always done well. Either way it’s still one of Calgary’s fine dining gems for value, ambiance, and service. Enjoy.
So Big Fred talks me into hitting Belgo on a Friday. I haven’t been since my last experience last summer (not positive). I really don’t get how oxygen thieves in the media keep writing how wonderful this place is. I am at a loss. Sure the space is nice, service is decent, but the food is wayyyy overpriced and generally isn’t good. Fred’s first mussel was spit out as it was rancid. How does a kitchen serve BAD mussels at $22 a pop? It’s not like you can miss that distinctive eau de poop is it? Wow. Then comes the Leffe Braised BBQ rib appetizer ($15)….it should be called road kill because that’s what the pieces of meat looked like. Boiled meat drenched in bad sauce…yum. At this point I am ready to leave but Fred sucks it up and crazily orders the Lemon Lobster Risotto ($8) from the a la carte menu…to my amazement it is good and given the other prices in this place how it only costs $8 surprises me. Other than having a nice selection of expensive beers and a really good front of the house guy in James Belcher I can’t see why media think Belgo is so good. I must be missing something when it comes to their food but have no desire to spend any more money trying to figure it out. I’ll stick to the beer.
The Living Room:I don't know what it is but I believe their beef tartare is the best in Calgary, even at $17. Maybe it has too much "zip" for some people but I've never found better. The oysters were excellent, totally fresh and no odor of the sea ($3.5 each)! For entrees we had the halibut (cooked perfectly) and the side mac n' cheese that comes with it was superb and surpisingly light. Was is worth $32....not sure about that. My trio of duck was really good but not worth $33. All three "mini" duck dishes were moist but the breast piece was at tad overcooked (though in fairness many places serve duck without pink these days because people are afraid it). Both entrees were presented well but the portions, for my taste anyway, were a tad on the small side given the prices. I don't expect to gorge like a wild beast...but I shouldn't leave hungry either. The creme brulee for $9 was bang on and is underpriced given the 2 chocolate truffles and praline-fresh fruit-caramel whipped cream topping it comes with! As usual the red wine we ordered (Cambria pinot noir) was warm as all their wines behind the bar are but after the first glass we were offered a fresh bottle from their cellar which was served at a nice temperature. I don't understand why they can't fix this as it is has been a problem as long as I have been going there. I'll keep sending back my reds until they get it right. If you're going to pay $13 a glass I think you have right to get decent wine service. In summary, we spent $105 on food and another $100 on various glasses of wine. The service was warm and friendly, the patio renovations were structural but nice, and it was a great evening to be dining "Al Fresco". You pay a premium for atmosphere like this in Calgary so prices here are on the high side. It just chaps me that we were hungry again by 10:30! Anyway I'll still go back because overall I enjoy the place, the people, and "little bits" of food they serve.
The Belvedere:Lunch at the Belvedere isn’t something I do often…but as the sky went cloudy and the thought of another mediocre pub lunch on a chilly patio crystallized in my mind I exited Stephen Avenue and figured the timing was spot on to treat myself. At least I hoped it would be a treat because I knew it wouldn’t be cheap eats. The Belvedere has become a bit of an oddity and I say this having been a regular there years ago. It’s not the inviting environment that it used to be and while other places on 8th offer a less stuffy formal dining experience The “B” soldiers on. They still have a great wine list and wonderful menu prepared by Chris Walker (new Chef since Alain Chabot left) but the lounge banquette looks run down and is dire need of a “restaurant makeover”. Thankfully the dining room has maintained its elegance and is wonderfully lit during the lunch hour, even on a cloudy day. Upon reviewing the lunch menu I instantly saw a dilemma. They offer way too many GREAT sounding dishes and it’s a shame to only choose one! Having recently been to Paris I chose a distinctly Parisian route and began with the daily soup…French Onion. I didn’t care for this as it had too much sherry vinegar (or some kind of vinegar) and not nearly enough onion flavor. The bowl of soup was served with two pieces of baguette topped with melted cheese so it was hardly the boring old school onion soup you get in many places. For $10, even though I didn’t enjoy the broth it was a nice dish (the table next to me seemed to enjoy so it may just be that my taste buds that didn’t appreciate the flavor). The glass of 2000 Chateau Duplisses Bordeaux ($12) I ordered was the perfect temperature but was too oxidized to be fully expressive. The vinegar in the soup didn’t help the wine either. Along with the soup and wine the waiter brought me 3 kinds of bread (rye, red pepper, and baguette) and all were excellent. It is such a small thing but so many places serve whatever crappy cardboard their baker sent over that we lose sight of the fact that great bread is…well…great. I scarfed down the rye and red pepper to try and kill the vinegar taste in my mouth but saved the baguette for my next course. For my entrée I ordered the “Game Sausage and Smoked Sturgeon Valley Pork Cassoulet”. Presented in a deconstructed fashion this dish was superb. Even though the waiter told me the dish was served traditionally (e.g. in a cassoulet bowl) I was pleasantly surprised and impressed by the look of this classic Parisian offering. The flavors in the sausage and pork were the closest thing to food porn I have had in some time. When I inquired as to how the pork was smoked yet devoid of any smoke ring I was told that the pork is “cold smoked” on site by Walker and his team. All I can say is…WOW! For $26 this dish was worth every penny. I drank a glass of 2004 Duckhorn “Decoy” Meritage ($20) with my entrée and it was a perfect compliment…a little extreme in price but an equally sexy assault on the senses. Soaking up the leftover “thyme jus” with the baguette was the perfect way to clean the bowl. The portioning of this dish was perfect so I figured…bring on dessert. The one dessert the Belvedere is known for is “Sticky Toffee Pudding with Treacle Sauce and Devon Cream”. I hadn’t had this in years…my mouth watered with anticipation…and then POW! This is one of “THE” things I think every foodie in Calgary should try. It has perfect texture, just enough the sweetness and the cream compliments these characteristics in such a way that you cannot wait to get another forkful in your mouth. I would eat this every day if I could. Spending this kind of money on a lunch for one would generally make me feel guilty…it is quite extravagant and not something I do often…after this lunch I felt REALLY guilty! Not only did I feel that it was worth it…I’d do it again…and next week you might find me back there enjoying a quiet lunch for one! Cheers.
Tribune:Having hammered River Café (hated to write it because I really like the restaurant and their staff) I wanted to highlight great value in Calgary’s fine dining fish bowl. My criteria are…service, atmosphere, food quality, and wine service/selection. If I have to pay $100-$200 for 2 in a “fancy-schmancy” (can’t eat A&W every night) spot I am damn well going to be discerning in my selections. What sucks more than spending the cash and feeling like some street rube afterwards? Oh…I know…being hungry!
“Value” is in the eye of the beholder...but I have found something that is worth every penny. Without further ado…the Tribuneis your best value in fine dining. Let me build the case for you because it’s time people started trying new spots and stop raving about the same 4-5 places over and over. Some of our current standbys are vastly over-rated but to suggest that any one of Calgary’s “sacred cows” isn’t what it’s cracked up to be might cause the general public to panic…we’re not nearly as cosmopolitan as the O&G revenues have us believing.
Why Tribune? Service and atmosphere are both excellent. I have never had a service issue there and neither will you. Whether it’s your first time or you are a regular you will be treated well. There are two rooms (lounge upstairs/dinner downstairs) and both are gorgeous yet there is no pretentiousness from the staff. Everyone has a good time, it’s simple.
As for the food…this menu offers any budget the most options in Calgary without making you feel like you cannot afford to be there in the first place. Whether you want to spend a little or break the bank you’ll feel comfortable. Sit in the lounge if you like…it will be okay…really!
My favorite appetizers include items such as the Goat Cheese Soufflé ($12.93), Beef Tartar ($16.24),and the Marinated Seafood ($16.28).The mains feature bargains as well. There are six pasta dishes and each can be ordered as half portions for as little as $12.24! My favorite entrée is the Half Chicken intarragon-citrus marinade served with a root vegetable fricassee ($23.91). I rarely order chicken because it’s boring and I can cook it myself…but this dish is heavenly. For $23.91I challenge you to find something that tastes this good at this price. HUGE portion. Excellent value.
As an aside, there are only TWO mains over $30 on the dinner menu and there is a lounge menu with a separate list of items priced accordingly. Both menus are available upstairs and the only criticism I have of their food is that the seasoning is off sometimes. It’s like they forget to add enough salt…but I can fix that…ask for sea salt.
Lastly, the wine list is good. It’s not as good Divinobut you won’t find the same tired list of glass pours that many high brow “pretenders” offer. As an added bonus…you can order 3 oz. tasters rather than a full glass! Again, this represents super flexibility in fine dining. There is a lot to choose from and it’s fairly priced so I have few complaints…except for their HUGE bubble wine glasses. Those have got to go.
Bottom line on Tribune…you can enjoy a great evening of fine dining for under $100 for 2. You can spend more but you don’t have to (though you can choose to). This is the value equation people are missing and I suspect it is why there is complacency in our fine dining market. When the entrées are over $35 they don’t have to work as hard. It’s good because it’s expensive…it’s expensive because it’s good. It’s ludicrous…but it’s your dollar…so spend it wisely but stop pandering to the old guard.
River Café: Often mentioned as one of, if not THE best restaurant in Calgary, River Café continues to pack ‘em in. Having experienced some fantastic meals in the past I was excited to go on a Saturday night and take in the atmosphere and all the kitchen has to offer. It’s a special event when dining here and the heightened expectations people bring with them are often met. On this night…such was not the case for my palate. It was a bad omen right off the bat when we were seated by the front door…close enough to catch the cold breeze that seemed constant. There was a smoky haze that clouded the room (the fireplace flu didn’t do its job) so the cold breeze turned out to be a bit of a blessing. Ah yes…we were in for a rustic evening.
On to the appetizers…having grown up in Edmonton I had to begin with the braised organic beef perogyand it was fantastic. Give me 11 more please! I then ordered 3 oysters and Talia had the roasted hedgehog mushrooms. This is where things went a tad sour…the oysters smelled fishy and while swallowing I wondered if I’d be praying to the porcelain bowl later that evening (I did not). The smoked chipotle fire mignonettekilled their fishiness but I did not enjoy them. The roasted hedgehogsdidn’t impress either. They were under seasoned and while intentionally served at room temperature the scallion pancakes were punchless (to quote a gourmand sitting adjacent to our table).
Wine…The River Café possesses one of the best wine lists you’ll find and certainly offers a wondrous variety. We chose some sparkling and then some pinot noir and both were served in proper glassware and at perfect temperature. True wine snobs probably would have drunk beer given the smoke in the room…but I am partial to smoky pinot noir so I rolled with the punches and enjoyed immensely despite the hazy room effects.
Main courses…I hate to nitpick but a menu with seven entrées over $34 is a tad pretentious…and if any of you are willing to pay $23 forbeech mushroom and barley risottoyou’re braver than me. In any case we settled on the braised elk shank ($45)and the slow roasted wild boar shoulder ($39). Now...when dining at the River Caféyou’re going to shell out some cash and that’s okay because you expect everything to be extraordinary…but on this particular evening neither entrée impressed…especially at those prices. Both were dry inside, over sauced and not well seasoned. The portions were small and the experience left a bad taste in my mouth…no pun intended. On a high note, I ended with the espresso crème brulée ($9)and it was a silky, pornographic-like dessert. I could have eaten 5 of them and would have been happy being jacked on espresso all night.
Overall this trip to the River Café was disappointing and presented the worst value I have experienced in my visits there over the years(+$150 for 2). Kitchens of this caliber should never have an off-night. At least the service was very good but again, I expect nothing less from them. Next time I go it will be for brunch. Here’s hoping my memories of perfect scrambled eggs are relived and someone opens the fireplace flu.
Caesar's cooked my steak perfectly and the seasoning was spot on. The price included onion soup, salad, and a side...and unfortunately none of the extras came close to being in the same league as the steak. The "consume" (their spelling, not mine) was onion flavored dish water. The salad came from a bag, had no peppers, cucumbers or tomatoes, etc. The stuffed potato was dried out and tasted like an M&M Meats shortcut. If it wasn't for the steak I doubt I would have paid the bill. Should I mention the watered down gin martini? Nuff said...but there's more...Talia's chicken neptune was cooked very well...but they sliced the shrimp on top in half to make it look like a generous portion. 2 whole shrimp halved to look like 4 at the price we paid was pathetic. The meat is great, the value is poor overall. I'll stick to their lounge menu IF I ever go back.
Skylark Restaurant serves up some mean Indian food. Overall the curries we had were quite flavorful (quite colon clensing too) with the highlight being the spiced up goat. The beef and vegetable samosas were very good. In particular, the vegetable samosa was spicy, moist and crispy on the outside. Easily the best I have had in Calgary. For dessert, the galub jamun was the best I have ever had. There were some disappointments...chicken vindaloo was bad, garlic naan was awful (they had no fresh garlic, used powder), and service was slow but overall Skylark was exceptional value. 6 of us ate for $156. So...the décor is bad, the place is in a strip mall, but I'd go back again...just not on a Friday night. If you like it spicy, Skylark is the place for you. Check out their dessert counter too!
Haddock n' Hoof:If you are a Fish n' Chips type of person....run don't walk to the Haddock n' Hoof on 17th Avenue. The fish and chips is the best I have eaten and the portions are HUGE. I have no idea what the rest of their food is like but our salads were fresh, the fries were great (cooked in a separate fryer so no fishy taste) and the batter on the fish was light and crispy. I think I was served an entire side of Haddock. It was a monster.
Misato:There are too many BAD sushi restaurants in Calgary. If you are eating discount sushi you deserve the bacteria your body has acquired. My new favorite sushi bar is Misato on Signal Hill. Horrible location but the best sushi and overall Japanese menu I have tasted in Calgary. They don't have a fancy dining room....and in fact are usually overrun with the well-to-do families of Signal Hill but their food is incredible and the prices are stupidly cheap. Look for a more detailed review soon.
Even though I consider their wine list to be a sham….I have to admit that my lunch at Blink was a pleasant surprise. I like the room, the service was very good and the food really surprised me. The red wine braised boneless short rib ($24.95) I had was fantastic. Served in a mini cast iron ramekin I thought the portion would be light…but was impressed by how much food they packed in that little pot of joy. The meat was cooked perfectly and was easily managed with my fork. The veggies complimenting the meat were firm, tasty, and thanks to the cast iron it was all warm throughout my lunch. While I am still not sold on this place…I am intrigued enough to come back for an early dinner before the steroid-monkey and club-girl crowd shows up. Still can’t believe what they’re trying to charge for E&E Shiraz so value remains a question….but I digress.
Once in a blue moon I ignore my expanded belly and need to satisfy my cravings for good fish and chips. Fortunately there is the Chowder House Seafood Restaurant (609-1st Street SW) a block away from my office in Petro Canada. Two times in a row I have been served excellent fish and chips by friendly, attentive staff. The batter is crispy crunchy good and the chips don’t taste of fish…which tells me they’re operating different fryers…thank the heavens. There’s also a nice selection of different types of fish you may choose from for your battered pleasure. The other dishes I have seen served around me on my trips here have also looked good…so maybe it’s time I tried more than their fried goodies.
I am a BBQ nut. If you smoke it, grill it, char it, or put a flame anywhere near it I’ll chow down. A great little spot for cheap Chinese BBQ in downtown Calgary is Happy Valley Restaurant (100-3rd Avenue SE). You can order the lunch BBQ special with extra meat and tea for about $10. Choose from duck, pork, or Chinese sausage…or just get all three! It’s not the Ritz but about once every week or so I have to satisfy my cravings for their glazed meaty treats. I have no idea what their other food is like…cause the BBQ rules.
Denman Island chocolate bars from Planet Organic are an expensive treat at $3.75 a bar….but the espresso chunk chocolate bar with a nice glass of port is something that will bring a big smile to the crankiest curmudgeon after a tough day oppressing creative underlings. The chocolate they use is made in Belgium but it’s in BC where they work their magic with ingredients all certified to be organic. An excellent treat.
Pies Plus (12445 Lake Fraser Dr SE) chicken pot pie….TO DIE FOR. Damn they’re good and hot and flaky. Loved their comfort food expression. When I ordered my peach-apple pie and the girl asked me for $18.75 I almost fell over…but having devoured the chicken pot pie crust I figured what the hell? What the hell indeed…it was the best pie (lard in crust) I have ever had besides the pies my granny makes (sentimentality always wins). I am now officially hooked on Pies Plus...and when I bring them back their pie tin I get $1 off. It’s worth it either way. Last thing…their bathrooms were SPOTLESS.
They’ve Gotta be Kiddin’ Me…
I had read many good things from various food personas about Aladdin’s Casbah in Avenida Village. Having acquired a taste for Lebanese food and other assorted Middle Eastern delights from my girlfriend and her family (Lebanese) I was excited that maybe…just maybe we had a new ethnic specialty spot in the south of Calgary worth checking out. Alas Aladdin didn’t have any tricks up his sleeve on the night we dined there. Maybe I should have rubbed the lamp harder? The store bought pita in plastic bag, the bottles of Costco water and very odd tasting food failed to impress. I hate to discourage or flame new spots down south but our meal was not something I’d ever wish to experience again. We ordered everything and most of it was dried out, seasoned poorly or just flat out tasted bad. Not interested in going back anytime soon.